Cosmetics, Vol. 5, Pages 20: Cosmeceutical Properties of Two Cultivars of Red Raspberry Grown under Different Conditions

Cosmetics, Vol. 5, Pages 20: Cosmeceutical Properties of Two Cultivars of Red Raspberry Grown under Different Conditions

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics5010020

Authors: Maria Papaioanou Evangelia Chronopoulou Gheorghii Ciobotari Rodica Efrose Liliana Sfichi-Duke Marianna Chatzikonstantinou Evangelia Pappa Ioannis Ganopoulos Panagiotis Madesis Irini Nianiou-Obeidat Taofen Zeng Nikolaos Labrou

Plant selection, input, and field management are proven strategies that produce high yields of crops bearing selected desirable characteristics for the nutraceutical and cosmeceutical industry. This study reports on the effect of substrate and light on selected quantitative and qualitative bioactive properties of two cultivars of Rubus idaeus L ('Ruvi' and 'Cayuga'). Our results demonstrated that the quantitative and qualitative fruit characteristics (yield, fruit dimensions, titratable acidity, and total soluble solids contents), plant growth, biosynthesis of secondary metabolites, and total antioxidant capacity, are significantly affected by genotype, light intensity, and substrate type. Fruits from 'Ruvi' plants cultivated under low light conditions, on soil/peat substrate exhibited high levels of antioxidant capacity, phenolics, flavonoids, anthocyanins, and high inhibitory potency towards the skin-regulating enzymes tyrosinase and elastase. Extract derived from these fruits was formulated into a topical skin care cream. This cream exhibited excellent compatibility and stability characteristics. Our research concluded that quantity and quality of Rubus idaeus L. fruits could be efficiently managed through conventional agronomic practices. Our project determined the optimal agronomic management practices to produce desirable characteristics and maximize bioactive content that determine the nutraceutical and cosmeceutical quality of the red raspberry.

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